Craig LaBan- "Philly's Pizza Wave Keeps Rolling"



By Craig LaBan

Philadelphia’s powers of pizza magnetism remain strong. Just when you thought we were oversaturated with Neapolitan and Detroit pies, other styles capture our imagination. Innovators push beyond the red sauce norms to showcase international twists. Underdog veggies — potato (?!) — are suddenly trendy toppings. Out-of-the-way locations draw crowds. And yes, there’s even a breakout local star coming from the freezer. Based on these six relatively new projects, Philly’s pizza energy has never been more vibrant and original.

Can frozen pizza’s bad rap be redeemed? This collaboration between chef Brad Daniels of Ambler’s Tresini, kitchen gear entrepreneur Matt McKenney, and Florida chef Brad Kilgore is about to change minds. What began as a pandemic experiment with the latest kitchen tech in Drexel University’s Food Lab has evolved into one of the best frozen pies I’ve eaten. Made from high-quality ingredients and built on a well-fermented Roman-style cushion of dough, it finishes with a Detroit-style frico of tangy cheese around the edges. One key: a unique cardboard baking pan with windows cut out — the “Freak Frame” — that allows the bottom to crisp. Currently available at Tresini and select beer distributors and by mail-order within a 250-mile radius. But Pizza Freak has big plans to expand.